Bright tropical colors, artisan art in Massaya, pio quinto, pasteles de tres leche, sketchy herbal outdoor eatery plastered with Hindu posters, six people wedged into a tiny moto taxi going from Niquinohomo to Catarina and back for a pizza, boat rides, men and boys of all ages ogling us and blurting out inappropriate phrases, feathers, hammocks, and steep forests...
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